Tripreport Fontainebleau 25/26-06-2011

The heat is on.
Saterday,
start of the vacation, but there is almost no traffic on the road, so in 3u30min we (Nico and i) are at the parkinglot of Cassepot. There are 24 Belgian cars parked, it's the weekend of Bleau Roots, an inatiative from climbinghall Bleau to give their members an organized weekend in Fontainebleau, probably lots of work, but also lots of fun.
Most of them are climbing in Saint Germain, but we are starting in Cassepot where we meet Renaat and the rest of the "stronger" climbers. Temperature is already going to its 30°, so the warm up goes quick and we can start with the serious work.
Nico and Renaat are climbing "Grot'esque (7a+), i'm repeating the boulder (i did the boulder 8 years ago), and want to try the sitstart. The difficulty seems to be not to touch the boulder behind you, a bit too difficult because i give up very fast.
A few of the guys are climbing "Crampe in the Ghetto assis" (7a/7a+), and Ondée assis (6c/7a), while i am trying "Banzaï en départ bas" (7a+), probably one of the ugliest boulders recently opend. I don't get my motivation high enough to fight for it, maybe next time.
We move to the other side of the road and Saint Germain.
In "Le Décapsuleur" (7a) seems to be a piece of the undercling missing, i hope that is the reason why no one of us realy makes a good attempt.
Our next stop is at "Diagonale des Fous" (7a), first trying the straight exit "Fenêtre des Lancements" (7a+/7a). No luck in the straight exit, maybe too morpho, but after a serious battle Renaat and i can climb Diagonale des Fous, hard work in this heat.

The last one of the day is "Éjection Précoce" (7a+), a nice dyno i already did a few years ago. I see everybody trying, including myself, but no one climbing the boulder. When i look at the video i made back then i know some things are not getting better with the age, but i comfort myself with the thought that other things are still improving.

After the pasta we hook up with the guys (and girls) at the camping, some good conversations, some good company and some (good) drinking, it makes me realize that there is a life besides climbing. The story about the little bleu guys and porn will last a long time.

Sunday,
it takes a while before everyone is up and awake, and with the predicted 30° to 35° heat i don't set my hope too high about climbing a lot today. It's 10.30 when we arrive at Drei Zinnen, Nico wants to finish off "Ordalie" (7a). About 15 minutes later and just before the rest of the guys arrive it's already finished, good job with this conditions.

I try to open a new boulder to the right of Ordalie, everthing feels possible, but not today. Even a sitstart halfway the boulder is a big 7a, making the link with a sitstart from the ground will be very hard (Neil, if you are reading this,....).
Renaat also climbs Ordalie and we can move on to the next one, "Secoueur d'Os" used to be 7a, but almost everyone climbs it in his first attempt, 6c/6c+ at the moment, in Cuvier it would be 6b.
Last one of the day, "Diversion" (7b), good effort by Renaat finishing this one off in this heat, the rest of the gang needs some colder temperatures.

The few boulders i still have to do in Drei Zinnen are in the sun and (or) too hard for this weather, at 3 o'clock we decide to go back home. I didn't climb a lot, but i don't regret for a moment being there, thanks to everyone for this nice weekend.